David Milner ponders the humble staple that unites cultures, communities and cravings
The celebrated US chef and commentator, Anthony Bourdain, speaking of the role of international cuisine on culture, famously said: “Pizza must be respected. It is the only true democracy”.
In 50 short years, the pizza has become a global economic powerhouse. Coinciding with the transition from it being a simple flatbread topped with local ingredients and served in basic cafes in Italy to having a significant presence in all walks of life.
The evolution of pizza into a worldwide commodity is testament to its universality and adaptability. Bridging cultural divides, it fuels local and global economies as both a culinary icon and a commercial juggernaut.
Who would have guessed that a basic dietary staple with a humble beginning feeding the working class of Naples would become such a worldwide phenomenon. Transcending culture, class and continents, the global pizza industry is reckoned to be worth over $165 bn.
Pizza has become a barometer of economic status reflecting societal trends, consumption patterns and broader economic conditions. With its global ubiquity it is possible to examine income disparities, cultural preferences and through it the structure of economic shift.
It is universally acknowledged that pizza symbolises comfort, community and celebration in all corners of the world. It effortlessly straddles the divide between luxury and necessity. Whether it is bought for a home supper, as a slice off a street vendor or as a gourmet restaurant meal featuring expensive ingredients such as truffle, this culinary proposition is a microcosm of broader economic stratification. Whilst its base product remains accessible, its customisation potential is indicative of spending power.
It is no surprise that pizza has come to dominate chiller and freezer space in UK supermarkets. In the last 10 years, sales have all but doubled to £1.8bn. Now that the holy grail of pizza – with a wood-fired taste and mouth-feel – can be achieved in home cooked form, notably by brands such as Crosta Mollica, sales continue to outperform many other categories.
It’s tempting to think that pizza is just pizza. It is far more complex. It all begins with getting the base right and that’s about replicating the fresh out of the pizza oven experience when you are using a domestic gas or electric cooker. And then it is the ingredients and the quality of them. For our Crosta Mollica sourdough bases we only use the fine grind 00 flour, salt, olive oil, natural yeast (Lievito Madre) and water taken fresh from the Dolomites that tower over our production facility in Italy. We never use preservatives or additives. Our artisan bakers wood-fire every base at 400c on lava stone from Mount Etna so the crusts rise, blister and char in traditional pizzeria style. And our toppings are made to age-old, authentic recipes from different regions of Italy.
There is a symbiotic beauty about the simple pizza. Want a plant-based offering – no problem, local speciality topping – dead easy, eco-friendly packaging – sorted, sit down in a restaurant, TV dinner, eat on the go – absolutely!
As a barometer of prevailing conditions, you only have to look towards pizza. Price and consumption are governed by economic status. In high income nations, pizza is ubiquitous with a range of offerings that suit different budgets. During economic downturns, fast food and comfort foods like pizza tend to thrive due to their affordability and convenience as consumers cut back on higher-end dining options.
Pizza has withstood all sorts of market pressures but demonstrated consistent resilience during periods of economic uncertainty. Its ability to provide a filling, shareable meal at a relatively low cost makes it appealing during recessions. Witness Covid-19 when pizza sales surged, and it took the title of the most popular home-delivery meal at a time when consumers were seeking affordable, comfort-orientated options.
Conversely, in emerging economies, pizza can signify upward mobility and globalisation. As disposable incomes rise, international pizza chains often expand into new markets, offering a status symbol for middle-class consumers seeking a connection to Western dining culture. In countries such as India and China, pizza once considered a luxury, has become increasingly accessible as economies have grown.
Pizza’s universal appeal clearly reaches every corner of life – whether in entertainment, politics (witness Donald Trump’s frequent favourable references), sport or business. It is more than just food it is a cultural symbol that has no borders. This appreciation is best summed up for many by Ed Sheeran’s admission: “If I had to live off one food for the rest of my life. Easy. Pizza”.
And maybe the humble pizza should take some of the credit for the phenomenon that is Apple. Steve Jobs admits he fuelled his early years building Apple on a simple diet of apples, nuts and pizza. Or, possibly, a more mind-blowing thought, did pizza narrowly miss being the name of the new brand!
Pizza has also gone into the annals of history as an acceptable measure of time. Jeff Bezos famously credits some of the success of Amazon to his introduction of the ‘two pizza rule’ meaning meetings should always be small enough that two pizzas would feed the entire group!
The democratisation of good food reinforces the idea that great culinary experiences should not be limited to an elite few but should be shared by all. In the grander scheme of things, pizza is more than just a meal – it is a testament to our shared humanity. Its universal appeal serves as a reminder that, despite our differences, we all find joy in the simple pleasure of a good slice!
David Milner is the Executive Chairman of Crosta Mollica
